Saturday, April 29, 2006

Wine Things I Noticed This Week

Had a fun tasting in the Mayoral Cellar this week, and a few things come to mind to share. I have been trying to taste the Stephen Vincent Sauvignon Blanc for a long time. Have loved his Cab, and heard raves about his Chard. So I opened one for the guests as a starter wine. Don’t bother. Totally lacking in acid, or even California grassiness, this flabby effort tasted more like an oaky Pinot Grigio, and a cheap one at that. No real fruit, certainly nothing like the New Zealands. I like some vigor and balance, and got neither.
My next epiphany came tasting a Chateau Margaux from my birth year that same night. Now 1957 wasn’t the same quality year in Bordeaux that it was in Richmond, so I knew this fondly held wine was about done as far as style points go. I made this our first red since I knew it would be lighter than the ‘00 Burgundy and ‘98 St Emilion to follow. And it was...For a while. But when we revisited it after tasting the last two wines, the old gem came to life. Not because of additional air (we had opened all wines 3 hours early). Something in our mouths changed. All of us agreed that the ‘57 had the oomph to stand well beside the two younger bucks. And I have no idea why, but I’m glad we tried it. When you taste next time, keep your first wine around for another sample at the end. Watch your mouth work to make it shine a little differently.

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