Went to a Pinot Noir "Workshop" last night with Cordell (of Fleming's Fame) hosted by Genevelyn Steele (aka "G") at a local Wine Shop. Timing was perfect with Wine Spectator's Issue featuring the temperamental grape released just two days prior. So I pre-briefed the event by checking out the article. The tasting was five Pinots from various locations, three US and a New Zealand and a French. WE started with New Zealand and were rewarded with an acid bomb which G mentioned was typical in her experience of the country's output. I noticed also some oak in the nose, and was rewarded with a confirm that many of these wines are indeed stored in french oak. An Oregon Pinot followed, this style being more typical of the Burgundian benchmark. Chateau Bianca from the Willamette Valley held my attention longer, it's finish and balance making it my top wine of the evening. California and New York were the next two, and while I was pleasantly surprised with both, the style is not in my wheelhouse at this time. Fruit in the nose, no earth and a clipped finish relegated these two to also-rans for me. The French Burgundy we tasted last was from Albert Bichot, and showed awesome color, with bright cherry/garnet tones and high reflectivity. Red fruit driven, it belied it's origin, but still had the nuances I expect from the Old World.
Pinot is a temperamental mistress, hard to grow, and harder still to make quality wines without manipulating the process. Reverse osmosis, adding water, blending are becoming more accepted with this varietal, and with mixed results to my mind. I prefer the old stylings of Burgundy, from the classic makers, but alas they crimp the pocket book. So Oregon is my best value/least manipulation destination when it comes to Pinot now, and even they can't seem to keep their hands clean.
Thursday, April 13, 2006
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