Food and Wine

I hope you all got a chance to read the two Newsletters that discussed pairing food and wine. Specifically, I tossed out a story about Trefethen Cabernet and my suggested pairing with Lamb Chops. While the story started out a discussion of fats and tannins, it ended up with a fun twist about professional Butchers.
Tanya Cauthen runs the newest butcher shop (Belmont Butchery) in town next to One North Belmont, in the Carytown area. She opined that my sending an admittedly neophyte meat purchaser to Ukrop's to buy good lamb was tantamount to treason. As we bantered back and forth, I have to admit coming to the realization that a good butcher, good grocer or good sommelier should all have the ability to "cross compare" wine and food pairings. We think nothing of asking the tuxedo in a restaurant what we should pair with our '96 Chateau de Arrogance, but how often have we asked our fish monger what style of wine might work with a new fish that he is getting us to try. (Yellow Umbrella Seafood by the way has a quality guy named David who can do just that). Tanya's store is packed full of inventive meats, cheeses, sausages and sundries. She has thrown down the gauntlet, and we should accept. Where we find excellent service grocers, allow them the chance to help you with the wine pairing. You know who these people are in your life. Trust them, and then share them with us!

Goodness It's Been Too Long

So many of you read the Newsletter, that I must admit I slack off on the blog occasionally and it shows recently. Between my new career doing taxes and writing the newsletter, I seem to have let the blog go a bit. Anyway I want you to keep checking in here, as I intend this to be the place which has MORE data, and more experiences. Most of all, the next experience is at AZZURRO, an Italian Wine Dinner with host Chuck Vaughan of National Distributors showing us pairings and nuances of great wines and the food they do so well. (March 19, call 804 282 1509 for reservations) Food and wine are synergistic organics which compliment and counter point each other. As we discover those nuances, we only slightly uncover the mysteries which create them. Micro-climate, local delicacy, passion of the grower/maker...all these go into the symbiotic relationship of wine and food. Cheeses with reds, fresh local fishes with crisp whites, nuanced old world wines with peasant stews and braised meats...these are the trips that we take and explore as foodies. What a ride. Cmon!!!

New Year, New Posting

Happy New Year, and thank you all for the great wishes for my retirement and birthday. I also just got my eyes "fixed" with PRK surgery, so I've been slow to write much because, well, I just am starting to be able to SEE!
Now happily moving into the Tax Season, I'm signed on at the HR Block in Stratford Hills part time, but still out tasting wines and developing new sights in Richmond for your tasting pleasure.
IF YOU ARE TRYING TO POST REPLIES ON THE BLOG: There are a number of options, but the easiest one, once you access the "Comment" page, is to hit the "Anonymous" button after making your comment. This allows you to comment without SIGNING UP for another annoying internet account. It would be helpful if you would put your name in the body of the TEXT so I'll know who posted though.

Happy tasting!

Endings, or Maybe Beginnings

Flying off into the Sunset

There are some cool pictures of my last flight at a friend's website. Click this link to see them.
As with most of my career with The Martin Agency, the flight went safely, but not particularly in accordance with the original plan. We were taking the Chairman and his wife to NY for a dinner, and upon trying to return, Richmond was shut down in fog. So we hustled some hotel rooms for everyone, and tried again in the morning. Kate Meacham, from our "First Monday" wine group, was the Air Traffic Controller on duty for the Richmond landing, and you need to see the pictures to see what she set up for my last flight. It was a touching ending to a fine career. Many thanks to all who made it safe and meaningful.

It's Freezing, Part Deux

The great thawing finally took place. Read back to the blog title about Freezing Wines to catch up on the reasons for the experiment. I thawed each bottle at room temperature, though I am told the microwave thaw cycle is no problem as long as you have VACCUSEALED. Both wines had been frozen for 5 weeks when I finally got to them, a point where they would certainly have been toast if left using standard methods of preservation. Results were mixed. The Red was fine, every bit as good as when it went in. The white, while tasting fine, did indeed have the expected tartaric acid crystals in the bottle. Not just a few, but maybe a half inch coating the bottom of the bottle. Every pour stirred them up, and clouded the wine. It was hard to conceive that you would find that appetizing to see when pouring into a glass. Perhaps decanting, but we have already gone to so much trouble, you certainly would say "Forget it! Open something else".
So, for a valuable red that you just can't finish over a couple of days, freezing is worth a try. For a white, not so much. Time to make white wine vinegar.

Off To The Pasture

One more week of avaition for your Mayor, and then it's off to see what's next. This has been an interesting time for me. A fond farewell from the Agency yesterday and a few small parties to attend for the holidays to say my good byes. I had originally decided to take a few months off, figuring my next opportunity would present itself. But then the Tax Bug bit and I decided to work the season at HR Block, so I start training next week for that. Probably not a lot of corporate tax returns, but it'll be eye opening to have to work at a desk for a while. They end their season around Feb. 23rd for us first year guys, so it won't be that tough. Apparently the rush is the first two weeks in February. It's amazing how much sleep I have lost over this whole thing. But as it comes to fruition, there's light at the end.
On the Wine front, there's a fun tasting in January at Fleming's which will secondarily celebrate my recent 50th Bday. Come by on the 8th from 530 til 7.

Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2001

Dark color with intense blackberry, chocolate and lightly toasted oak. Full-bodied and ultravelvety, with caressing tannins. Vanilla, chocolate and berry. Goes on for minutes. Best after 2010. 4,830 cases made.

Bin 22, Beaujolais Nouveau, and Other Stuff

This week is the annual unveiling of Beaujolais Nouveau. Thursday night I'll be at Wine Lover's on 2284 John Rolfe Parkway to taste Chris' selection in the weekly tasting. Come up and join us starting at 530 til about 7! I'm looking for those who attended the BIN 22 Italian Wine Tasting to use the COMMENT area below to tell us about the dinner last night. Jom Opalka is one of my current favorite distributors, and I'd love to hear about the event. We at the Fleming's Wine Spectator 90+ dinner enjoyed those pairings. Five distinct wines with the always eclectic foods that Fleming's rolls out for these dinners. By the way, use this link to track the countdown to the Wine Spectator Top 10 of this years Top 100 this week!

Wine Chemistry 301

Ok, my estudiantes, this week let's get together and do a Chemistry experiment. We are going to freeze two opened bottles of wine and see if this is a "reasonable" way of saving wine over a long period of time, one which exceeds normal expectation. We know that oxygen is the enemy of opened wines, and that oxidation gives wine that vinegar taint over time. When we freeze wine, having first minimized the amount of air in the freezing vessel, we minimize the long term contact with oxygen in two ways: the vacuum itself minimizes some of it, and the solid nature of the ice keeps oxygen from permeating the wine. What we hope will happen is that the wine will, upon thawing, approximate a smaller diminution of flavor than if had been ruined by leaving in a liquid state. Join me in taking a partially consumed Red and White and let's freeze it for the next two weeks. Because of the properties of freezing, be sure to Vaccu Seal the bottle, or consider placing the wine in a plastic bag that has had most of the air removed. Leave some space for expansion though.
One thing we can expect is that in the process of freezing, the water in the wine will freeze prior to the alcohol. This, I'm told will allow some of the solids in the wine to "precipitate out", forming small crystal in the thawed wine. It is my understanding that these are tartaric acid crystals, and are tasteless. This will be the only flaw to the texture, but I'm told that the finished product can actually improve in taste because of the decrease in acidity! Well, we shall see! I take no responsibility for any broken bottles. Please Vaccu Seal the wine to preclude that!
When we are ready to thaw the wine...I'll have some techniques for that too, which even include the microwave! I think you will be amazed at the outcome.
The last thing that is important is to make notes about how the wine tastes before the freezing so we can compare. I have chosen a Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Bordeaux White, which is Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The latter is young and acidic, so we shall see if we lose too much character by losing the acid. The Cab is a typical South American with a light style and nice dark fruits. Very light tannins make this a candidate for storing in an unconventional way, because tannins would help to keep it from spoiling too quickly if left at room temperature.
See you in two weeks!

Hard At Work

Always working hard creating my lectures on food and wine pairing and balance. Thought you'd like to know that I am always thinking of you as I work! Now it's off to Fleming's to try out what I've been working on.

Food/Wine Synergy

Lately, we have been concentrating on food and wine pairings at many of my haunts around town. Most of you have, by now, been introduced to my pairing with White Zinfandel, and the surprising result that it brings. We examine the intricacies of acid and salt in foods and how they affect wine. Further, oak in red wines affects spicy foods in surprising ways. We know that in the “old world”, wine is generally made in a style which will compliment food, specifically the foods of the region from which they come. Rhones with the local peasant dishes, crisp whites from areas near great seafood, and hearty reds where lamb and beef is raised. Is there any doubt which wines pair best with classic Italian dishes? Keep these generalities in mind while you cook this week. In what region is your main dish most successfully grown or raised? Grab a “local” wine and see if it doesn’t make the whole meal balance.

Acacia Wine Dinner Nov. 1st

Acacia announces a three course mini wine dinner Wednesday November 1st! Dale has put together a wonderful fall menu to compliment these delicious california wines. Clement Brown from Virginia Distributing will be on hand to answer your questions about the wines. Reservations will be required and the event will cost $32per person. For attendees of the tasting only these wines will be available to order from River City Cellars at a special price. We look forward to seeing you.

Mini wine dinner November 1st:

salt roasted pears, belgian endive salad, creamy bacon dressing
Sauvignon Blanc, Sterling Vineyards, Napa Valley 2005

crepe stuffed with smoked salmon, cauliflower, basil sauce
Chardonnay, St. Clement, Napa Valley 2005

speckled trout, curry lentils, apples, raisins, eggplant chip
Pinot Noir, Solaris, Carneros 2005
or
boneless beef shortribs, braised cranberries, crispy potato gratin, swiss chard
Cabernet Sauvignon, Oberon, Napa Valley 2002
$32. Per person

and ALWAYS:TUESDAY nights HALF-PRICE wines by the bottle, when you order from our dinner menu or prix-fixe menu.
three-course PRIX-FIXE menu $21.95 MONDAY-THURSDAY 5:30-9pm and FRIDAY and SATURDAY 5:30-6:30
MINI WINE DINNER Wednesday November 29th. more info to follow Remember....We are available for parties of any occasion, in your home or at our restaurants.
Please call 354.6060.

Top Dog On The Value Wine List

Well you may have seen my hint a few weeks back, and the last few wines that came to my attention did not dissuade me from my Top Value Wine Pick from the list submitted by the faithful readers herein. Here are my comments about the winner of the flight:

Montecillo Crianza 2002 (Spanish Rioja)
An Official Top Dog of the tasting group. This Spanish Rioja from Kroger and Total Wine is silky, soft and structured, with great notes of medium red fruits and just enough tannin to make me swoon. Tempranillo very often taste cheap when in the Crianza style, meaning released in it’s third year, with at least one year in oak. The next step up would be Riserva, and not fall into our price category. This is an awesome find, and I’m buying by the case. By the way, the 2001 was the actual wine submitted. If it’s any better than this…Wow (95)

Thanks to Kristen Kelly and Barbara Garazo for submitting this wine. I have now tasted the 2001, and the 1998 Riserva, both of which are available at Total Wine. The Riserva prices a bit higher, about $18.

Fleming's Featured Customer

The Fleming's Quarterly Newsletter is out, and your Mayor is featured in a short Q and A. As you all know, my humble beginnings at Fleming's have grown to this auspicious honor of bringing you the latest Richmond Wine News and my take on general wine theory. Please stop by Fleming's and ask to see a copyof the Newsletter, and consider joining in for the fabulous Wine Spectator 90+ Wine Dinner in November. Awesome wines and an awesome menu.

Bonny Doon Is An Odd Place

In an effort to market to the "millenial" market, those turning 21 in the years from 2000 - 2010, Bonny Doon and other wineries get edgy with their Brand. Check out this example. The Millenials are the largest generational market since the baby boomers, numbering about some 20 million Americans. Wine is the drink of choice among this new set, and they are spending more to quench their thirst. Those aged 21 to 34 are 84% more likely to spend $20 or more for a bottle of wine than those 35 or older. Pizza Pairings and impish names are the latest marketing techniques to get wines noticed. Spaceships over Chateauneuf du Papes are just a beginning of the invasion. Buy a Millenial a glass next time you see one perusing the bar's wine list. Or better yet, ask to have a taste of what he's paying for. It's probably more expensive than yours!

A Hint About The Value List

Spain has always been one of my favorite wine producers. It suits my old world style, and there are cutting edge wine makers plying their trade with new exciting ideas. There are more acres of grapes in Spain than any other country, but their total wine production trails France and Italy.
The styles of Spain's wines are evolving. Once known for high alcohol reds and low acid whites, they now are working to entice the taste styles of the world wide market. Government regulations have created higher quality ratings, and the lesser appellations have been properly demoted. Once requisite long oak aging rules have been relaxed and now more fruit is accessible in these wines. While each controlled appellation (DO) has it’s own specific rules, generally they follow a common theme.
Crianza style wines are released in their third year typically, and have generally have about one year in oak. Crianza is the Spanish word for “breeding”, and wines that are released prior to two full years of aging carry the words “sin crianza” (without breeding) on their label. Riservas must be at least three years old and also require one year in oak. The Crianza style is generally more desirable in the American market, although Riservas are considered better wines. Try out a crianza rioja for an affordable interesting old world play.

The Wine Value List

In my weekly newsletter, I have asked my readers to send to me the value wines that they like, those under $12 that make them shout out. I've received some super replies, and I'm happy to be releasing their pleasures soon, probably next week. I'm tasting each and everyone one of the wines and rating them. To get the list, you must send me a wine. It's only fair! I'll list my comments and return the full list to anyone who sends in a wine. If you are not on the Newsletter list, pop me an email or reply to this message with your email addy. Now I'm off to Fleming's for a glass or two and a big ole piece o' cow.

Does Anybody Read This??

Leave it to China

Beijing - The French used grapes, Russians fermented potatoes, Koreans put ginseng in their drink and Mexicans distilled cactus plants to make fiery tequila.Now China is introducing fish wine.Sun Keman, an entrepreneur in the north-east port city of Dalian, has formed the Dalian Fisherman's Song Maritime Biological Brewery, with a plan to use his background in the fishing industry to make fish into wine."Different from China's thousands of years of brewing, the brewery will clean, boil, and ferment fish for making wine," the official Xinhua news agency reported.The company already had orders from Japan, Russia and other parts of China, it said.Tipplers might also take heart in knowing the brew is purported to be good for them."Experts said the wine is nutritious and contains low alcohol," Xinhua said.