Saturday, September 30, 2006

So Many Tasting Venues!

There are LOTS of new and old Tasting Venues in Richmond these days Thought I'd update you on my list:

Bin 22 - Tuesday thru Saturday evenings, extensive by the glass list of eclectic offerings, including sparklers. Tuesday is $1 off all glasses. Wednesday is half price bottles. Auburn and Cary Sts, in Carytown. This is a Mayoral Favorite.

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar - First Monday of each month free tasting from 530-700. Wines paired with excellent munchies. Third Wednesday of each month is the Charity Wine Night, with a Special List of Reserve Wines offered by the glass, with every nickle going to a local charity. Great opportunity to try Reserve Wines, without having to take out a mortgage. Stony Point Fashion Mall www.flemingssteakhouse.com

Cafe Gutenberg - WineDown Wednesdays, half price wine by the glass, 5-10pm. 17th and Main www.cafegutenberg.com

Can Can Brasserie - Monday 6-7 PM $1. Art Tuesdays with tasting 6-7, specific Tuesdays. Check Schedule. www.cancanbrasserie.com

Kroger Carytown - Friday 4-7 PM wines with cheeses. Join Terry Loveland in the newly refurbished store with temperature controlled Reserve Room.

Wine Lovers - Thursday 530-7 PM wine with discussion, local distributors and wine specials. John Rolfe Parkway

The Wine Cellar - Jeff Aumen hosts wine tastings on Fridays, 5 til 8. Midlothian near Sam's Club.

River City Cellars - Friday 5-7 pm www.rivercitycellars.com

Sunday, September 24, 2006

The Night They Got It Wrong

I'm at The Homestead, a resort in the mountains of Virginia which competes with the likes of the Greenbriar and the Inn at Little Washington for it's clientele, and competes well. Like a 1930's style resort with charming art deco interiors and classic club style exteriors, they exude the style and grace one expects of genteel southern charm. Tonight's wine list lived up to the surroundings. BW and I dined in the 1766 Grille, their upscale, quiet dining room with tableside food prep and a Wine Spectator Wine List.
We have long ago decided that we differ on wine styles, so I ordered a Trefethen Cabernet for her, hoping to appeal to her love of chocolate oak notes from California. And in my old world style, I chose a Northern Rhone Hermitage by Guigal. Hermitage means 100% Syrah, with Hermitage being arguably the best of show from the region. 2001 was a stellar year in Northern Rhone, and most of the wines form the region are drinking solidly right now. Guigal is a large producer with a reputation of fine sturdy wines, and excellence, including a recent Wine of Year on Wine Spectator's Top 100 List.
The 2001 Guigal Hermitage is rated 90 by Parker and prices out at about $65 retail. It was $83 on the list, so for a resort, it was well priced. Unfortunately, my cocktail waiter either misheard my order or grabbed form the wrong bin a Gigondas by another maker. Not even close to what I ordered, this is a Southern Rhone made from grenache and syrah, and prices at about $25 retail. He left to find the right wine, with a glance at the menu for guidance and a bin number. Alas, his return was closer, but no more correct. Guigal's Crozes Hermitage from 2002 was presented, and he started slicing the capsule before I could quickly tell him that this also was not correct. While similar, and 100% syrah, this is one of the lesser appellations of the Northern Rhone, and an inconsistent year as well. Certainly not the gem that I ordered. We summoned a Sommelier to help us now, and he insisted that he did indeed have the wine I wanted, and he would bring it if I still wanted it. Perfect! Once again though, we got ever so close without success. He brought me the correct Hermitage, but also from 2002, our also-ran vintage. Now I understand vintages change, and these things happen. But it galls me when the quality of the year change is not reflected in the price. The 2002 Guigal Hermitage rates an 86 from Parker, and is available retail for about $50. Nice enough, but not the wine I ordered. Not until I pointed out the difference did our server discount the wine. He did offer us a complimentary split of a Guigal Condrieu white, for "all the confusion". This was a perfect gesture, and while we declined, the service excellence of the Homestead shown through for a glimmering moment. He opened and poured a small bit of my Hermitage for me to taste, and I was happy to find the wine without flaws. My Sommelier then smiled and placed the bottle on the table and exited the scene, neglecting to fill my now dry glass! BW was quick to notice the lapse and asked appropriately, "Did he just say F*** You, in winespeak?"
Perhaps he did. Perhaps he had the last laugh, and maybe he just forgot. Regardless, I tell the story, and will recall the time The Homestead got it wrong. I bet it's rare.

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

I drink to your charm,your beauty and your brains —Which gives you a rough idea of how hard up I am for a drink.

Groucho Marx

Thursday, September 14, 2006

This Article From the Times Dispatch - Cordell's Wine Picks

Cordell Watkins, a bartender at Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, suggests five wines with screwcaps. Fleming's operating partner John Van Peppen offers the food pairings. The wines can be found in some retail outlets in the area.
Yalumba 2005 unwooded Chardonnay (South Australia), $12.95: No oak, lots of green apple, some citrus-type notes. Would go well with crab cakes or Ahi tuna. Jumbo lump crab cakes with lime butter sauce pairs nicely with tropical flavors of the Chardonnay.
Conundrum 2004 white table wine (Caymus Vineyards, Rutherford, Calif.), $28.45: Blend of five varietals, puzzle as to percentages of the varietals; layered floral; tropical fruit; spicy; lush texture. Pairs with sweet chile calamari, which has a sweet chili sauce. Conundrum has enough residual sugar to balance quite nicely with that.
Kim Crawford 2005 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand), $19.55: Big grapefruit with some underlying tropical-fruit notes; nose is so distinctive. Would go well with spicy food, such as Wicked Cajun Barbecue Shrimp, which has garlic and spice and a little heat. Sauvignon Blanc cuts through it nicely.
Zilliken 2005 Butterfly Riesling (Germany), $17.99: Medium dry. Not dry, not sweet, kind of in between; great floral aroma, apple, pear fruit, acidity. Pairs with seared scallops with a lobster cream sauce. The hint of residual sugar and floral nose on the Butterfly would enhance the scallops.
Longview Red Bucket 2005 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (Australia), $11.99: Full-bodied with lots of tropical notes, pineapple, guava, spicy, too. Food pairing recommendations include Breaded Brie, almond crusted. Also, a chilled seafood tower that includes lobster, shrimp, lump crab and fresh oysters. Nice fresh, cool summer wine like this would work well. Prices may vary.

J. Emerson Changes Hands

Jim Tastian-Brown has sold the venerable wine store on "The Avenues" and Libbie and Grove. In his last newsletter Jim thanked his many customers and introduced the new owner. Staff will remain the same, and there may be some upgrades to the "non-wine" areas to better serve the local market. Jim has been a wonderful mentor to me, and will apparently now dabble in wine wholesaling and import. Best wishes to a good friend

Cordell and Cork

Cordell with Nicole Riedel, formerly of Osaka


Hope you all saw the neat article in the Times Dispatch featuring our own Cordell Watkins from Fleming’s (Wednesday’s Flair Section). Cordell was explaining screw caps to the newspaper, dispelling the notion that the only good closure for wine is real cork. So many great products are on the market now to replace cork. As we begin to see cork prices increase, and collectors continue to be bedeviled by TCA or “cork taint”, screw caps and other cork replacements are becoming more popular and more effective at saving our treasures. Statistics vary, but as many as 5% of wines using real cork are found to have traces of TCA ( trichloroanisole), a compound which produces in wine a musty, wet basement aroma. The smell can also be described as wet newspaper or wet dog hair to some. Regardless, these “corked” wines are unsuitable for drinking, and can be very annoying to a collector who has put years of waiting into a rare vintage. When TCA creeps into a winery, the results can devastate an entire years production. While the original bacteria comes originally from cork, it can grow in the winery and become costly to get rid of. Sources estimate that the cost of cork taint to the wine industry reaches $100 million worldwide annually.

Friday, September 01, 2006

It's Not Always the Most Expensive Wines...

In Bentonville, Arkansas last night I perused the wine menu at The River Grille, a nice steak place with a Wine Spectator recognized list. The usual suspects were all there, Jordan, Silver Oak, Opus etc, but the Chilean part of the list caught my eye as a real price value. Concha y Toro makes what some might call "grocery store" wines. As a matter of fact, one of my favs when I first started drinking red wine was the 1.5 L version of their Cab/Merlot blend pricing out at about 9 bucks. My tastes these days enjoy the Marques de Casa Cabernet, one of their higher end wines. Higher end being relative, it priced out on this menu at $29. It's lush and gentle, a softer cab more in the old world style. I paired it with a nicely marbled Rib Eye and was happy to be on the value track for once. I don't usually review wines on here, but this is a wine you might want to hook into next time you see it. You don't have to fly to Bentonville to find it. I've seen it at Total and Kroger, and I'm betting your retailer can order it too.