Cafe Gutenburg WineDown Wednesdays, half price wine by the glass 5-10 pm. 17th and Main. www.cafegutenberg.com
Can Can, Monday tastings 6-7 $1.
Wine Dinners Wednesdays, Reservations required. (Carytown) 358-7274 www.cancanbrasserie.com
Wine Lovers Thursdays 530-7 Free. John Rolfe Parkway
Beer and Wine Westpark Thursdays 4-7 Free. Broad St. beyond Parham
Melting Pot Thursdays 6:30 Tasting and discussion $10. Gaskins Near Gayton
The Wine Cellar Fridays 5-8 Free. Huguenot at Midlothian
River City Cellars Fridays 5-7 Free. Carytown
www.rivercitycellars.com
Bin 22 Wine flights with light foods and cheeses. Tuesday thru Saturday. Carytown
Fleming's First Monday of each month 5:30-7:00 Free. Charity Wine Wednesdays 3rd Wednesday of each month. Reduced priced glasses, all proceeds to charity. April 19, SPCA. 6:00-8:00 Stony Point Fashion Mall www.flemingssteakhouse.com
Friday, March 31, 2006
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
Wine Pairings with Food
Ok, so I can’t tell you all there is to know on this subject in the space below, but I do have a few comments. I recently attended a wine dinner featuring nine of the 2005 Wine Spectator Top 100 List. The wines were awesome, and the food was very good. Any of the dishes we were served I would order again in a restaurant and be thrilled. But the wine pairings missed the mark, at least for me. So, a few clues, and some suggestions.
Tannin in red wines, the astringent or almost puckery feeling in your mouth, is an acid that bonds with and neutralizes fat. This is why the great Napa Cabs work so well with steaks with marbling (NY Strip and Rib Eye). A meat with less visible fat, Filet Mignon for instance, pairs better with a less tannic red, perhaps a Merlot. Acid in white wines make you feel a rush of saliva move forward in your mouth. While different acids, they have the same effect. A butter sauce or cream sauce pairs well with acidic Sauvignon Blancs and French style Chardonnays. Be confident matching regional foods with their local wines. The Italians make their wines for the express purpose of matching their foods. Rustic French Rhones pair with stews and peasant foods. The toughest pairing is the salad course when a vinegar based dressing is used. I find Reislings and the Gruner Veltliner are good white pairings, and surprisingly Chianti works fairly well from the red side. But the main rule still remains: If you drink a wine you like, the pairing with food probably won’t be that bad. Always default to a favorite wine if you are in doubt. The dog can have any of the food you don’t like!
Tannin in red wines, the astringent or almost puckery feeling in your mouth, is an acid that bonds with and neutralizes fat. This is why the great Napa Cabs work so well with steaks with marbling (NY Strip and Rib Eye). A meat with less visible fat, Filet Mignon for instance, pairs better with a less tannic red, perhaps a Merlot. Acid in white wines make you feel a rush of saliva move forward in your mouth. While different acids, they have the same effect. A butter sauce or cream sauce pairs well with acidic Sauvignon Blancs and French style Chardonnays. Be confident matching regional foods with their local wines. The Italians make their wines for the express purpose of matching their foods. Rustic French Rhones pair with stews and peasant foods. The toughest pairing is the salad course when a vinegar based dressing is used. I find Reislings and the Gruner Veltliner are good white pairings, and surprisingly Chianti works fairly well from the red side. But the main rule still remains: If you drink a wine you like, the pairing with food probably won’t be that bad. Always default to a favorite wine if you are in doubt. The dog can have any of the food you don’t like!
Monday, March 27, 2006
In the Cellar
The Mayor and one of his lovely constituents. The wine cellar played host to her women's wine tasting group. Some of the most serious wine tasters I have ever seen.
What You See Below
These are excerpts from the weekly wine newsletter I write for about 125 folks here in Richmond Va. Each week the newsletter advises about local tastings, wine dinners and events, and finally, a blurb from me on some wine subject. Not intended as a replacement for Wine Spectator, these are simply written with the intermediate wine taster in mind, or hoping to help bring the beginner to the next level. Hope you enjoy the old stuff, and whatever new stuff I come up with next.
Syrah and Petite Sirah Jan 25
Confusion abounds when we drink wines made from similar sounding grapes. Syrah and Petite Sirah have caused much confusion, but they are as different as Shiraz and Durif! Syrah, the classic Rhone (France) varietal now grown in the new world successfully, gets its origins from the Middle East. Australia grows it as Shiraz, bowing to it Persian root. Characteristic flavors include black currant and blackberries, as well as smokiness and spice. Often used as a blending grape in the Southern Rhone (Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Cotes du Rhone), this grape stands principally alone in the North (try Hermitage or Cote Rotie) and in the new world.
Petite Sirah (various spellings) is a new name for a little know grape called Durif and is grown popularly today in California as a single varietal. It makes a full bodied, dark wine with notes of pepper and well structured tannins. When it is blended with other varietals, it adds zest and complexity. Durif also originated in the French Rhone but is thought to be virtually extinct there today.
Petite Sirah (various spellings) is a new name for a little know grape called Durif and is grown popularly today in California as a single varietal. It makes a full bodied, dark wine with notes of pepper and well structured tannins. When it is blended with other varietals, it adds zest and complexity. Durif also originated in the French Rhone but is thought to be virtually extinct there today.
Wine while Travelling Jan 26
I’m off to Dallas this weekend for a culinary extravaganza in what has become my favorite food and wine city. One of the things I do when traveling to a new city is to try to find the great food and wine gems available there. It’s amazing the number of resources you can find to help you with this. The Internet is an obvious beginning. Not only Google ( “city” best restaurant wine) but www.Fodors.com and the local newspaper website are sure fire places to check. I also go to www.winespectator.com and go to their restaurant recommendation area. If you stay at a large hotel, there’s help at the concierge desk, but it’s all in how you ask the question. I always try to let them know I’m looking to have a “wine experience”. Include your budget and food tastes.
Once you select a place, I like to call them for wine recommendations, even the day before I go to the restaurant. With a credit card on file, most will offer to decant your wine properly few hours prior to your arrival. Good wines, treated well, will pair perfectly with whatever food you may order, so don’t be afraid to make a commitment!
Once you select a place, I like to call them for wine recommendations, even the day before I go to the restaurant. With a credit card on file, most will offer to decant your wine properly few hours prior to your arrival. Good wines, treated well, will pair perfectly with whatever food you may order, so don’t be afraid to make a commitment!
Decanting for Dummies Feb 2
Those beautiful decanters that we see in various shapes and sizes around the wine world serve two purposes. For most of us drinking wines that are relatively young , the decanter is used to allow the wine to breathe, softening the tannins and evaporating some of the alcohol to allow the flavors of the wine to emerge. In older wines, decanting helps us to separate the wine from any sediment that has been formed as a natural result of aging. Don’t have a decanter? Any glass or ceramic container will do!
Deciding when to decant can help in your enjoyment of a fine wine, young or old. White or rosé wines rarely improve with decanting, except for high end white Burgundies. Lighter reds also may lose some of their flavor if decanted. Bolder tannic reds, including Cabernet and Shiraz smooth out nicely and allow the nuances of the wine to become more obvious. If no sediment is in the bottle, quickly pour the red wine into the decanter, allowing maximum splashing to assure maximum aeration. Let the wine sit about an hour after decanting if you have time.
In older wines with sediment, let the bottle sit for a few hours to make sure the sediment is settled. Slowly pour the wine into the decanter watching for the first grains of sediment in the neck as you pour. Placing a candle or flashlight under the neck facilitates this. You lose about a half inch of wine in the bottom of the bottle, but the wine you drink will be clear and enjoyable.
Deciding when to decant can help in your enjoyment of a fine wine, young or old. White or rosé wines rarely improve with decanting, except for high end white Burgundies. Lighter reds also may lose some of their flavor if decanted. Bolder tannic reds, including Cabernet and Shiraz smooth out nicely and allow the nuances of the wine to become more obvious. If no sediment is in the bottle, quickly pour the red wine into the decanter, allowing maximum splashing to assure maximum aeration. Let the wine sit about an hour after decanting if you have time.
In older wines with sediment, let the bottle sit for a few hours to make sure the sediment is settled. Slowly pour the wine into the decanter watching for the first grains of sediment in the neck as you pour. Placing a candle or flashlight under the neck facilitates this. You lose about a half inch of wine in the bottom of the bottle, but the wine you drink will be clear and enjoyable.
Wine Chemistry 101 Feb 8
We often speak of liking our wine “dry” but what does that really mean? The opposite of dry in this context is sweet. And we often prefer one over the other. Don’t confuse fruit with sweetness, though. A completely dry wine may have wonderful fruit character.
The chemistry of wine making that applies here is that natural sugar in the grapes turns to alcohol as it ferments. The longer the fermentation takes place, the more sugar turns to alcohol. When all the sugar has been chemically changed, the alcohol content is fairly high, 12% or higher. Certain wines drink better sweet, so the process is halted before the “residual” sugar is gone. Wines below 12% tend to have some sugar left and we described them as sweet. At 9%, they can be positively cloying. The wine maker controls the final product by measuring the sugar level in the grape (called the “Brix”) and then timing his process to his desired level of dryness or sweetness. If you know you prefer dry to sweet, or the opposite, keep an eye on the alcohol listed on the bottle. Big Shiraz or Cabs come in at 14%. Many whites, including Rieslings, go both ways, from 9% to 12% or higher.
The chemistry of wine making that applies here is that natural sugar in the grapes turns to alcohol as it ferments. The longer the fermentation takes place, the more sugar turns to alcohol. When all the sugar has been chemically changed, the alcohol content is fairly high, 12% or higher. Certain wines drink better sweet, so the process is halted before the “residual” sugar is gone. Wines below 12% tend to have some sugar left and we described them as sweet. At 9%, they can be positively cloying. The wine maker controls the final product by measuring the sugar level in the grape (called the “Brix”) and then timing his process to his desired level of dryness or sweetness. If you know you prefer dry to sweet, or the opposite, keep an eye on the alcohol listed on the bottle. Big Shiraz or Cabs come in at 14%. Many whites, including Rieslings, go both ways, from 9% to 12% or higher.
Amarone Feb 19
At least once a month it seems one of my loyal readers asks me if I have tasted Amarone, and what I think of it. This newly popular wine, more formally called “Amarone della Valpolicella” is an Italian red made principally from Corvina grapes. They are allowed to dry in a cool room for up to four months, concentrating the flavors and sugars, a process known as “Recioto”. Once fermented fully, this dry red wine has a slight “raisiny” character which most find elegant, with a slight bittersweet taste. It shines as food wine, which is typical of the Old World style. Slow braised Osso Bucco or Lamb Shanks come to mind, where the slow cooking accents the caramelization of the meats sugars.
The answer to my original query is unfortunate. I try Amarone’s regularly, mostly at the insistence of well meaning friends and professionals. The bittersweet raisin element is consistently overwhelming for my taste, and I am yet to taste one that appeals to me. But, I have never met another taster that agrees with me. Most find this a solid, fascinating new taste. And that, my friends, is why we go through all of this. Each of our mouths are different, and that’s what makes this so much fun!
The answer to my original query is unfortunate. I try Amarone’s regularly, mostly at the insistence of well meaning friends and professionals. The bittersweet raisin element is consistently overwhelming for my taste, and I am yet to taste one that appeals to me. But, I have never met another taster that agrees with me. Most find this a solid, fascinating new taste. And that, my friends, is why we go through all of this. Each of our mouths are different, and that’s what makes this so much fun!
New Vintage Blues -Feb 23
Those of us who taste wines regularly learn a great deal about our own palettes, gravitating toward those wines and varietals which appeal to us. We take into account not only the grape(s) used, but the region, price and winemaker. About the time we find an “old faithful” wine that we can either buy in bulk or can count on being at our local restaurant consistently, we notice something changes. If we are astute enough to ask, many times we find that the vintage, or year of production, has changed.
Each year provides the winemaker a new set of challenges to create his product. An oversimplification has winemakers falling into two camps: Those who try to create a consistent product year to year, and those who make the best wine they can make with the product they are given. Many old world wines use blending of grapes to create consistency. Current trends in the new world are to let nature and vineyard management have a larger role in the final taste. This can be unnerving as a consumer, but it allows us to understand the challenges that each winemaker goes through each year if we take the time to consider it. Talk to your wine professional the next time you notice a vintage change and try to ascertain what is different, and why.
Each year provides the winemaker a new set of challenges to create his product. An oversimplification has winemakers falling into two camps: Those who try to create a consistent product year to year, and those who make the best wine they can make with the product they are given. Many old world wines use blending of grapes to create consistency. Current trends in the new world are to let nature and vineyard management have a larger role in the final taste. This can be unnerving as a consumer, but it allows us to understand the challenges that each winemaker goes through each year if we take the time to consider it. Talk to your wine professional the next time you notice a vintage change and try to ascertain what is different, and why.
Groovy Wines - March 15th
For those of use with enough gray hair to have used the term “groovy” in it’s heyday, welcome back to an old friend. The term now refers to an increasingly popular Austrian white wine and it’s varietal, Grüner Veltliner, or Gru-V. Crisp and medium bodied, this wine comes to mind now that the winter weather has moderated and warm summer breezes begin to waft into town. Expect pear, citrus and nuts, balanced acid and perhaps a vegetable nose such as green bean or asparagus.
While you might think of Riesling when you think of Austria (or perhaps Baron Von Trapp), Gru-V is the most widely planted grape there today. They have in the past been overgrown and simplistic, but since the late ‘80s have been pruned and thinned and produced a more intense and concentrated wine. Look for the drier versions (12.5% + ) and you will be rewarded with a white pepper spice on the nose. Because of it’s unique style, it pairs well with those hard to match foods like artichoke and vinegar based salads. Wachau is a highly desired region to look for, but expect to pay a little more for it.
While you might think of Riesling when you think of Austria (or perhaps Baron Von Trapp), Gru-V is the most widely planted grape there today. They have in the past been overgrown and simplistic, but since the late ‘80s have been pruned and thinned and produced a more intense and concentrated wine. Look for the drier versions (12.5% + ) and you will be rewarded with a white pepper spice on the nose. Because of it’s unique style, it pairs well with those hard to match foods like artichoke and vinegar based salads. Wachau is a highly desired region to look for, but expect to pay a little more for it.
Mar 22 Newsletter blurb
From the March 22 Newsletter:
Let’s delve a little deeper into the current debate about using synthetic cork or screw-cap enclosures in wine bottling. It is estimated that 3-5% of wines produced today are “corked”, flawed by a chemical called TCA (see bottom right). TCA in wines emits a musty aroma reminiscent of wet newspaper or mold. Using new materials for the cork, or metallic screw caps with new airtight seals helps eliminate cork taint. Traditionalists argue that newer wine enclosures lack the ambiance of the old cork, both in sound and feel. But many collectors are becoming weary of pouring out long time stored expensive wines that are tainted. Synthetic corks and screw caps have not been used long enough to test for great aging, but some wineries are releasing current production in both natural and screw cap so that side by side testing is available over the years. Storage of screw-capped bottles is also being debated. There is no longer a need to keep the cork wet, so storing bottles vertically is recommended, keeping the sediment in the bottom of the bottle. However, it is easy to damage the metal cap and break the seal so caution is advised in handling these enclosures. Air getting into the bottle is the enemy, so any dents or dings in the cap are good reason to refuse a screw capped wine. See if you can tell a difference when tasting a wine with a synthetic closure. So far I can’t!
Let’s delve a little deeper into the current debate about using synthetic cork or screw-cap enclosures in wine bottling. It is estimated that 3-5% of wines produced today are “corked”, flawed by a chemical called TCA (see bottom right). TCA in wines emits a musty aroma reminiscent of wet newspaper or mold. Using new materials for the cork, or metallic screw caps with new airtight seals helps eliminate cork taint. Traditionalists argue that newer wine enclosures lack the ambiance of the old cork, both in sound and feel. But many collectors are becoming weary of pouring out long time stored expensive wines that are tainted. Synthetic corks and screw caps have not been used long enough to test for great aging, but some wineries are releasing current production in both natural and screw cap so that side by side testing is available over the years. Storage of screw-capped bottles is also being debated. There is no longer a need to keep the cork wet, so storing bottles vertically is recommended, keeping the sediment in the bottom of the bottle. However, it is easy to damage the metal cap and break the seal so caution is advised in handling these enclosures. Air getting into the bottle is the enemy, so any dents or dings in the cap are good reason to refuse a screw capped wine. See if you can tell a difference when tasting a wine with a synthetic closure. So far I can’t!
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