I'm at The Homestead, a resort in the mountains of Virginia which competes with the likes of the Greenbriar and the Inn at Little Washington for it's clientele, and competes well. Like a 1930's style resort with charming art deco interiors and classic club style exteriors, they exude the style and grace one expects of genteel southern charm. Tonight's wine list lived up to the surroundings. BW and I dined in the 1766 Grille, their upscale, quiet dining room with tableside food prep and a Wine Spectator Wine List.
We have long ago decided that we differ on wine styles, so I ordered a Trefethen Cabernet for her, hoping to appeal to her love of chocolate oak notes from California. And in my old world style, I chose a Northern Rhone Hermitage by Guigal. Hermitage means 100% Syrah, with Hermitage being arguably the best of show from the region. 2001 was a stellar year in Northern Rhone, and most of the wines form the region are drinking solidly right now. Guigal is a large producer with a reputation of fine sturdy wines, and excellence, including a recent Wine of Year on Wine Spectator's Top 100 List.
The 2001 Guigal Hermitage is rated 90 by Parker and prices out at about $65 retail. It was $83 on the list, so for a resort, it was well priced. Unfortunately, my cocktail waiter either misheard my order or grabbed form the wrong bin a Gigondas by another maker. Not even close to what I ordered, this is a Southern Rhone made from grenache and syrah, and prices at about $25 retail. He left to find the right wine, with a glance at the menu for guidance and a bin number. Alas, his return was closer, but no more correct. Guigal's Crozes Hermitage from 2002 was presented, and he started slicing the capsule before I could quickly tell him that this also was not correct. While similar, and 100% syrah, this is one of the lesser appellations of the Northern Rhone, and an inconsistent year as well. Certainly not the gem that I ordered. We summoned a Sommelier to help us now, and he insisted that he did indeed have the wine I wanted, and he would bring it if I still wanted it. Perfect! Once again though, we got ever so close without success. He brought me the correct Hermitage, but also from 2002, our also-ran vintage. Now I understand vintages change, and these things happen. But it galls me when the quality of the year change is not reflected in the price. The 2002 Guigal Hermitage rates an 86 from Parker, and is available retail for about $50. Nice enough, but not the wine I ordered. Not until I pointed out the difference did our server discount the wine. He did offer us a complimentary split of a Guigal Condrieu white, for "all the confusion". This was a perfect gesture, and while we declined, the service excellence of the Homestead shown through for a glimmering moment. He opened and poured a small bit of my Hermitage for me to taste, and I was happy to find the wine without flaws. My Sommelier then smiled and placed the bottle on the table and exited the scene, neglecting to fill my now dry glass! BW was quick to notice the lapse and asked appropriately, "Did he just say F*** You, in winespeak?"
Perhaps he did. Perhaps he had the last laugh, and maybe he just forgot. Regardless, I tell the story, and will recall the time The Homestead got it wrong. I bet it's rare.
Sunday, September 24, 2006
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